Burning smell and major heat on one rotor - - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion | panoramic-3d.ru
Show Your Support Become A Premier Member

    > > > >
  • Reload this Page >
    • Burning smell and major heat on one rotor


Burning smell and major heat on one rotor

Thread Tools Rate Thread
Old 03-05-2013, 05:57 PM
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2010
location: Gillette Stadium
Posts: 2,513
Thanked 59 Times in 51 Posts
Burning smell and major heat on one rotor

so i just got home from the store and i got out and smelled almost burning rubber and felt intense heat from the rear left tire. I went to get my IR heat reader..rear rotor was 640 deg...every other one was around 200

Now i did a stretch on the highway of about 110 mph. just to push my car a bit as i haven't in years. Didn't slam on brakes ect or wasn't riding brakes hard at all. Car felt fine when i was breaking..no issue.

The rear rotors have groves in them an i need to get them replaced..but what's with that intense heat? 600 deg? WOW Are my pads completely gone?
Old 03-05-2013, 06:10 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 56
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
it the pad was completely gone, you'd hear it, a terrible metal on metal grinding. sounds like it could be a seized or semi-seized caliper.

on my 93 MR2, it felt like the car braked more than it should have when i let off the gas (and didn't touch the brake). turns out the front calipers weren't fully releasing due to rust build up in the cylinders. you can tell by letting the car cool and then driving without the brakes (if you have a manual). when you come back all rotors should be cool if one is hot the caliper is sticking. if you have an auto, you could jack up the body and try to spin each wheel by hand. if one spins harder than the others, could be sticking. burning smell would be the pad (just like you can smell pad if you use the brakes real hard before stopping).
Old 03-05-2013, 06:31 PM
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2010
location: Gillette Stadium
Posts: 2,513
Thanked 59 Times in 51 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by simphmerj View Post
it the pad was completely gone, you'd hear it, a terrible metal on metal grinding. sounds like it could be a seized or semi-seized caliper.

on my 93 MR2, it felt like the car braked more than it should have when i let off the gas (and didn't touch the brake). turns out the front calipers weren't fully releasing due to rust build up in the cylinders. you can tell by letting the car cool and then driving without the brakes (if you have a manual). when you come back all rotors should be cool if one is hot the caliper is sticking. if you have an auto, you could jack up the body and try to spin each wheel by hand. if one spins harder than the others, could be sticking. burning smell would be the pad (just like you can smell pad if you use the brakes real hard before stopping).

yeah i looked and the pad looks to be almost gone and rotor has really deep grooves. I am thinking sticking caliper as well. Did this high temp warp my rotor..i needed new ones any ways
Old 03-05-2013, 07:37 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 56
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anton_Chigurh View Post
yeah i looked and the pad looks to be almost gone and rotor has really deep grooves. I am thinking sticking caliper as well. Did this high temp warp my rotor..i needed new ones any ways
you'll probably find that the pad on the hot side is gone (due to faster wear by stuck caliper) and the pad on the other side is fine/normal. you'll know if the caliper is seized (sounds like your case is pretty bad) when you replace the pads if you go to press the piston back in and it won't go with channel locks or a regular c clamp. you can replace the calipers (take this opportunity to get a powder coated set) or you can get rebuild kits to replace the seals and what not yourself. you'd also need a hone to polish the inside of the caliper.
Old 03-05-2013, 07:40 PM
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2010
location: Gillette Stadium
Posts: 2,513
Thanked 59 Times in 51 Posts
i wish there was a way like you said drive the car with no brakes for 15 min and come home and test it...i have an auto. I may be able to do this in M mode but not sure
Old 03-05-2013, 08:38 PM
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2010
location: Gillette Stadium
Posts: 2,513
Thanked 59 Times in 51 Posts
yup..stuck caliper...just drive in M mode without using brake once on a 15 min drive. Rotor was 100 deg..every other rotor was about 45-50

Smell was back as well. Going to take off the wheel tomorrow have have a close look after work. Luckily work is only 2 miles down the road
Old 03-09-2013, 12:30 PM
Triton3.5's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
location: Delano Mn
Posts: 599
Thanked 12 Times in 12 Posts
Had to replace same one last year,, (driver side rear) wifey helped me bleed the brakes after,,,
Old 03-09-2013, 12:35 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2005
location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,782
Thanked 71 Times in 65 Posts
I would recommend you clean and lube the caliper pins with brake grease once a year rather than just with every brake job.

Also, pay attention to brake dust. If one wheel is dusting more than the others, check out the pads/calipers sooner rather than later--chances are something is sticking.
Old 03-09-2013, 03:11 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2010
location: SF bayarea (925)
Posts: 3,945
Thanked 414 Times in 359 Posts
It's possible this may even be related to your vibration issues. Besides just repairing your brakes, another thing to verify is the the runout in the hub on that wheel (which also could have contributed to the brake issue). Lastly, be aware that you may ultimately need to rebuild the seals on the affected caliper, depending on how much overheating it experienced.
Old 03-11-2013, 04:15 AM
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2010
location: Gillette Stadium
Posts: 2,513
Thanked 59 Times in 51 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vqsmile View Post
It's possible this may even be related to your vibration issues. Besides just repairing your brakes, another thing to verify is the the runout in the hub on that wheel (which also could have contributed to the brake issue). Lastly, be aware that you may ultimately need to rebuild the seals on the affected caliper, depending on how much overheating it experienced.
i took the caliper off the other day and found it was fine..piston moving ect not freezing..so i figure the rotor is either warped and rubbing or something else. I may have to just replace the caliper.

It hasnt gotten that hot since that day

You know what..since i took the caliper off and put it back on...knock on wood..my vibration issues have gotten a little better on highway. May be on to something but not sure
Old 03-11-2013, 04:57 AM
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2010
location: SF bayarea (925)
Posts: 3,945
Thanked 414 Times in 359 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anton_Chigurh View Post
i took the caliper off the other day and found it was fine..piston moving ect not freezing..so i figure the rotor is either warped and rubbing or something else. I may have to just replace the caliper.

It hasnt gotten that hot since that day

You know what..since i took the caliper off and put it back on...knock on wood..my vibration issues have gotten a little better on highway. May be on to something but not sure
Did you clean and relube the sliders? I would have suspected them of causing it more than a stuck piston. If the caliper is all ok, then look for runout on both the rotor and hub. Remember, it is possible to have an obstruction behind the rotor, between the rotor and the hub, which will cause runout even if the rotor and hub are true. Lastly, look for any kinks, dents, or pinch points in the brake line (both flex and hard) to that caliper. Oh yeah, It would be awesome if that were the cause of your vibes too.
Old 03-11-2013, 02:25 PM
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2010
location: Gillette Stadium
Posts: 2,513
Thanked 59 Times in 51 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vqsmile View Post
Did you clean and relube the sliders? I would have suspected them of causing it more than a stuck piston. If the caliper is all ok, then look for runout on both the rotor and hub. Remember, it is possible to have an obstruction behind the rotor, between the rotor and the hub, which will cause runout even if the rotor and hub are true. Lastly, look for any kinks, dents, or pinch points in the brake line (both flex and hard) to that caliper. Oh yeah, It would be awesome if that were the cause of your vibes too.
line looked fine...nothing blocking rotor that i say and the sliders were fine. Lubed everything back up and put it back together..still kinda stumped
Old 03-11-2013, 08:34 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2010
location: SF bayarea (925)
Posts: 3,945
Thanked 414 Times in 359 Posts
^^

that's very strange
Old 03-15-2013, 02:01 PM
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2010
location: Gillette Stadium
Posts: 2,513
Thanked 59 Times in 51 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vqsmile View Post
^^

that's very strange

The other day i drove 150 miles on highway..got home and rotor was 375 deg..the other was 160. An the vibrations were bad. But they always seem to get back when temps go out...another werid thing.

I guess i am just going to replace the caliper and maybe rotor on that side to see if anything changes..if it fixed it..i will do the other side.
Old 03-15-2013, 02:36 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2010
location: SF bayarea (925)
Posts: 3,945
Thanked 414 Times in 359 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anton_Chigurh View Post
The other day i drove 150 miles on highway..got home and rotor was 375 deg..the other was 160. An the vibrations were bad. But they always seem to get back when temps go out...another werid thing.

I guess i am just going to replace the caliper and maybe rotor on that side to see if anything changes..if it fixed it..i will do the other side.
Considering what you've said you've done already, if this were mine, I think I'd consider replacing the pads and rotor first, and then if still having issues, trying a caliper rebuild kit. As long as the inner cylinder isn't scored, there is very little to go wrong on a caliper that isn't addresses with a simple rebuild kit.

I guess I'm thinking that if you had an issue with the caliper sticking, that the rotor was overheated in spots and you're getting/got cementite formation which, in a never ending downward 'death-spiral' of degradation, accelerates the propensity for further pad transfer and rotor overheating.

Another more obscure idea would be that the hydraulic proportioning valve for you braking force distribution is faulty and sending undue pressure to that one caliper.

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
P0300 please help Vqalexisz General Tech Questions 5 10-14-2015 01:48 AM
New owner! 07 G35X, HEATED SEATS questions. invincible514 G35 Sedan V36 2007- 08 7 09-21-2015 08:05 PM
Overlooked part of rotor replacement NJ6MT G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 4 09-10-2015 09:40 AM
2004 Infiniti G35 Sedan Fuel problem? Rhinos7777 Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction 3 09-06-2015 06:36 PM
Fixed inifiniti's brake design flaw with Nissan akebono big brakes Machine Head G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 19 09-04-2015 08:22 PM


Tags
back, build, burning, caliper, front, g35, heat, infiniti, left, piston, push, rotor, smell, warped, wheel
Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:21 AM.


Copyright ©2002 - 2017, panoramic-3d.ru All Rights Reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in:

Related pages


lifter engine noiseprogram viper remote starthabusakehonda accord 2006 wiper blades6 disc cd changer for car stucknorthern radiators eppingwhere is a crankshaft sensor locatedrca aux adapterfrys natomascamshaft installation costlaguna seca blue m3image dynamics idq 12infiniti eau rouge specspioneer 5600weds kranzenissan rays wheelscl441dsp cleansweepameriprise costco insurance reviewmothers aluminum wheel polishinfiniti dealer orland parkmegan racing wholesalemounting low profile tirescolor of antifreeze coolantfunction of condenser in fanoxygen sensor wiring diagramcostco ameriprise car insuranceg35 radio repairp0420 infinitioverfilled engine oilwheel works walnut creek cacost of drive shaft repairbride racing seats for salelegendary lmc motor car company18x10 5 tiresg35 idler pulleybolt on turbo kitsrevolution brakewhy do heater cores go badfrigi clean350z greddy turbo kitnissan altima valve cover gasketapexi s-afc350z shift knob removalfx35 intakeplastic dip cansfuel gauge fluctuatesnissan altima service engine soon lightboston gt42grey plasti dip wheelsnissan sentra timing belt or chainoz wheels canadassv soundnitrous direct portcolor of antifreeze coolantjwt irving txaftermarket spoilerebay camber kitinjen intakesobd code p0340blacked out headlights legaluniversal radiator overflow bottleact stage 1 clutchhart brakes rotorskonig sidewaysvossen wheels canadag37 greddy twin turbo kitzaino z 2bmw 330i reliabilityp45r rotaremove rust from brakesnissan altima timing chain noisenismo kit2jzswap comisimple ipod cablehow much should a rear brake job costmb quart 8 subwooferhow to biamp front speakersinfiniti fx50 0-60dual plenumclutch throw out bearing replacement costshell car wash toronto