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Just bought G35, throwing 8 codes

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Old 08-18-2017, 12:16 AM
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Cleric670
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If the next sensor that comes in doesn't work properly it might be worth the diagnostic fee as the Nissan dealership to check for the root problem, unfortunately automotive oscilloscopes are stupid expensive and not something most people have, but that's how you actually TEST the phase sensors like cam/crank.
Old 08-18-2017, 01:46 AM
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I think you should read the FSM and try the resistance checks on the sensors instead of playing swap a part.

If those check out then I would do what cleric suggests, since you have no way to monitor the kind of signal the sensor is putting out without a scope.
Old 09-17-2017, 06:52 PM
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You ever sort your car out? Like other said, best to get the cam position sensors straight from the dealer. The yaw control/VDC, etc lights, that can be worn front suspension components. If the steering wheel isn't centered due to work suspension, it will pop on all those lights. In my case, it was the lower control arm bushings that were shot.
Old 09-18-2017, 05:30 AM
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You ever sort your car out? Like other said, best to get the cam position sensors straight from the dealer. The yaw control/VDC, etc lights, that can be worn front suspension components. If the steering wheel isn't centered due to work suspension, it will pop on all those lights. In my case, it was the lower control arm bushings that were shot.
I haven't got it quite figured out yet. I'm still throwing these codes:
P1078
P0507
P0011
P1078
P0507
P0011

The weird thing about the bank 1 sensor is that its the same as bank 2, their both straight and not angled. I've taken the sensor that works on one side switched it with the other and it's still the bank 1 sensor that throws the code and the car wont start after switching them.
​​​​​​It also started misfiring yesterday, but I changed the spark plugs and did a compression test. The spark plugs fixed the miss fire. But the compression test yielded 120psi on each cylinder. (Only a dry test done with all plugs removed) ​​​​my thinking is that it may have skipped a tooth or whoever sold or swapped the engine put the chain on wrong and it may be hurting the compression.(At least I could hope it's that simple)

For the VDC /slip light, I noticed when jacking up the front end that the passenger side tire doesn't spin freely and has restriction like the calliper may be sticking. The lower ball joint on the passenger side is also busted, but I have one on the way.

Idk if I'm just getting use to the car, but it doesn't seem like it pulls as hard as it should, and I feel like the compression would have alot to do with it.
Old 09-18-2017, 01:29 PM
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Yeah that compression is really low, it should be between 140-180 psi (higher is better) with no more than 10% variance between the highest and lowest cylinder. The timing chain is practically impossible to skip a tooth, there would be catastrophic damage to the front end for it to happen with so many guides and everything being directly tensioned with oil pressure.

You did do the compression test on a warm motor yes? And you did let the motor rotate for 7 cycles?
Old 09-18-2017, 05:37 PM
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Yeah that compression is really low, it should be between 140-180 psi (higher is better) with no more than 10% variance between the highest and lowest cylinder. The timing chain is practically impossible to skip a tooth, there would be catastrophic damage to the front end for it to happen with so many guides and everything being directly tensioned with oil pressure.

You did do the compression test on a warm motor yes? And you did let the motor rotate for 7 cycles?
Yes I let the motor rotate 7-10 cycles, and it was slightly warm. I had just ran the car and I tried to get all the plugs out as quick as possible to run the test. There is a possibility it wasn't completely warm, since being my first time changing the plugs on this car it took me a minute to figure out what all needed to be removed. But I got roughly 119-120 psi on all cylinders, I'm glad it's even across the board but slightly worried it was so low.

Also I'm almost certain the front passenger sticking calliper is causing the VDC off and slip lights, it's always the front passenger wheel that locks up for a couple seconds after just starting the car causing it to jerk and screetch the tire when pulling out of a parking lot
Old 09-18-2017, 05:52 PM
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Put a tablespoon of motor oil in each cylinder and see if the pressure comes back up, that will determine if it's the piston rings that are shot. If that doesn't work perform a leakdown test. Either way compression that low is bad but it's a pretty big difference between a head rebuild and a short block. Worse case they're both shot and you need a full rebuild/replacement.

You really have to screw up getting the cam/chain/crank alignment wrong on this motor, the match marks are permanently stamped in the ends of everything and the directions are very clear in the fsm.
Old 10-22-2017, 02:53 PM
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P0011 is bank1, P0021 is bank2. Cam sensors different than the crank sensor, fortunately they're easy to replace. You should try a full reset, ECU, Idle, Throttle recalibration. It might clear up your throttle actuator motor code if you're lucky (doubtful).

i replaced my engine and i have code 90021 i replaced bank 2 and its still there 😣 the mechanic said he test drove it and it runs good he checked the engine its fine but its shaky and i still have that code popping up .. Before my engine went out i never had problems with shaking.. Any ideas? I need my car !!😑
Old 10-22-2017, 05:14 PM
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Shaking usually means either something didn't get bolted down properly like the motor mounts, or a severe misfire (or multiple misfires) but the ECU will tell you if it detects misfire. Did it do this on the first startup with the new motor? Has it EVER run correctly with the new motor?

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