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2004 G35 coupe problems

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Old 01-11-2018, 07:54 PM
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2004 G35 coupe problems

Hi everyone I have a 04 coupe that Iíve been having some problems with. It started with my ebreak and battery light coming on very dim, tested battery and alternator and everything tested fine. Replaced battery terminals and nothing changed. Lights still on (very dim). Then my abs light would start flickering on and off and I could hear the pump clicking. Now the abs light is always on as well as my VDC off (they donít work now) Iíve tried looking this up but can only find posts where the ABS, VDC AND SLIP lights are on, but my slip light is not on. The vehicle now Misfires all the time, engine light is on but no codes about the misfire. What could this be? Iím totally stumped. Here are the codes I got when I scanned it
P0500, P1574, P1212 and U1001.
Old 01-11-2018, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 204G35 View Post
.... tested battery and alternator and everything tested fine. .
How did you test the battery and how old is it?

Have you consulted the FSM?



Telcoman

Last edited by telcoman; 01-11-2018 at 08:45 PM.
Old 01-11-2018, 08:39 PM
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How did you test the battery and how old is it?

Telcoman
Tested it with a volt meter, everything checked out fine with car off and while running under load. Batteryís about a year or 2 old if that
Old 01-11-2018, 08:58 PM
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Tested it with a volt meter, everything checked out fine with car off and while running under load. Batteryís about a year or 2 old if that
Test it again



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Old 01-11-2018, 09:03 PM
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Test it againk



Telcoman
I tested it about a week ago, but I donít have any problems with any of my electronics, like none of my lights dim or anything like that, what is that in the picture?
Old 01-11-2018, 09:23 PM
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You don't test a battery with a digital multimeter, you test the electrolyte with a hydrometer as posted above and you also test with a "load bank" that most parts houses have to test batteries.

A load bank basically makes the battery power a large heating element and a fan to simulate a 100amp current draw while it simultaneously measures for voltage drop. If it drops below spec during the load test it's garbage.

Using a digital multimeter to measure voltage without any kind of load on the system doesn't tell you much really.
Old 01-11-2018, 09:25 PM
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Also since your ALTERNATOR can supply a sustained 120amps while the engine is running you have no way to measure life of the BATTERY while it's connected to the car. It needs to be disconnected while load banking.
Old 01-12-2018, 08:30 AM
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You don't test a battery with a digital multimeter, you test the electrolyte with a hydrometer as posted above and you also test with a "load bank" that most parts houses have to test batteries.

A load bank basically makes the battery power a large heating element and a fan to simulate a 100amp current draw while it simultaneously measures for voltage drop. If it drops below spec during the load test it's garbage.

Using a digital multimeter to measure voltage without any kind of load on the system doesn't tell you much really.
Testing the individual battery cells with a battery hydrometer can tell you if one or more cells are weak and are not accepting a full charge.


During three repeated tests of my five year old battery over the course of a month last October produced these results on one battery cell.

I had the dealer replace my battery during a routine oil change and when it was two below zero here in NJ last Saturday my vehicle started right up.

Telcoman

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