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Old 01-01-2018, 03:41 PM
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brand new buy

hey guys, ive been wanting an infiniti for a while and just got one a day ago.

its a 2003 G35 coupe 6MT Black with 97k miles on it rebuilt title bought here in toronto for 2500CAD. came with a brand new clutch so iam good on that.

car is in good condition mechanically body wise needs new front left fender and a few rust spots on rear quarter panels near the rear bumper.

Passenger side window does not work and is not fully up and sealer, i read around i heard its a common problem with the infinities. driver side goes up and down really slowly idk if that motors gonna give out too lol.
The previous owner seems like he removed the factory woofer because he had an after market one and i got him to lower the price by taing that out, anyone know where the stock bose woofer is or is not?

Wanted some info about what kinda of engine oil the car uses, what are some things i should look out for. where are some common area's for engine oil leaks? also i have this power steering whine that prolly is due to low fluid but will get that checked out if the whining doesnt go away after i put in the fluid.
Old 01-01-2018, 07:33 PM
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not for sure on the 03 but in my 05 the factory sub and amp were located under the flooring in the trunk drivers side between the fender and spare tire
Old 01-01-2018, 08:05 PM
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Check out post #2 here about the window motor I was just answering a similar question yesterday and the same applies to your situation

The engine was specced out to use Nissan conventional 5W-30 conventional motor oil, if your engine doesn't consume any oil feel free to experiment with synthetics but I would STRONGLY recommend you always check your oil weekly on a cold engine before it started. The VQ is fairly notorious for consuming oil, if you are consuming oil then I recommend you stick to conventional, many folks have lost their motor because of not checking the level regularly and running the motor nearly dry.

The most common point of oil leakage is the valve covers, either from the individual spark plug well seals (remove coil packs and visually inspect the spark plug well to ensure it's free of oil) or the main gasket around the perimeter of the valve cover, use an inspection mirror and a flashlight to look around the edges of the valve cover.

Have your rear differential bushing inspected for wear, it's a common point of failure and can lead to destruction of the rear differential if it gets very bad and is driven hard.

What was the reason for the salvaged title and do you have any pics of the car? Welcome aboard!
Old 01-02-2018, 01:56 PM
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yea i woke up today and saw a rainbow colored stream running from the car to the drain lol smh idk what it is too cold to check, also i was going throw drive clean tests of the car in 2016 it failed due to both camshaft sensors advanced timing and multiple misfires,
am gonna post some pictures the weathers really bad right now an as much as i want to drive it am trying not to smh.

its a rebuilt car from america total loss, i looked over the carproof but it didnt have estimated damages on it.

also one more question my friend who tested the car and stuff cause my manual driving ability is not that great said that when the tranny is cold the gears are hard to shift he said once the car warmed up it was going into gear smoothly, could this be the shifter bushing or the tranny fluid?
Old 01-02-2018, 02:30 PM
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Most manual transmissions are stiff going into gear when it's freezing outside and as the synchros wear out it makes it feel like it WONT go into gear until the rpm's drop for your first dozen or so shifts. This usually goes away after 1/2 mile or so of driving however and is basically "normal operation" so I wouldn't be too concerned, just know that your transmission is probably starting to show signs of wear, change the fluid every 30k to keep the wear to a minimum.

I would remove the coil packs and inspect them for damage, burning/scorching of the spark plug well boot, blistering of the shiny epoxy resin on the top, corrosion of the contact spring inside the boot. Replace any that show visible signs of wear. Also remove all spark plugs and REPLACE with factory OEM plugs, don't get aftermarket ones, get the correct spark plugs NGK PLFR5A-11 and torque to 18 ft/lbs.

Run an OBD2 scanner on it and look for any hidden trouble codes, if it does have cam sensor codes still then replace them with OEM items not aftermarket, this car is very picky about it's sensors and it's almost always best to stick to the OEM ones (the actual ones not ones from Joe's parts house that says **** like "oem fitment" or "meets oem spec" or other garbage).

Most important item is to check your fluid levels DAILY until you are 100% sure that nothing is leaking out, your car making a rainbow on the ground is usually fuel so I would carefully inspect around the fuel dampers at the back of each fuel rail and around the injectors themselves which is difficult to do because they're on the lower intake collector below the upper/lower manifold. If you have a borescope you can actually see really well if you go in through the front inspection window on the manifold (little square opening on the front of the engine).

It's possible it was salvaged by insurance because of a blown motor, the cost of replacing the motor on an '03 likely exceeded the value of the vehicle and I suspect they put in the "new" clutch at the same time they put in a different motor. If you can do the troubleshooting and will turn your own wrenches then you can make a solid daily driver out of it again with time, patience, and money. If you don't have the mechanical skills to perform the work yourself you might seriously think of reselling the car since it's already in risky condition and these things aren't exactly cheap to work on.
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