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SLP light comes on when turning.

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Old 11-07-2011, 10:17 AM
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SLP light comes on when turning.

I have a 2004 G35 coupe, 5A/T. About a week ago I had to change both back tires, my godspeed camber kit bushings where changed, one of my OEM 19" forged rays was repaired, some back break pads where reconstructed because my padding was worn out and my car was aligned. The car feels great now, and stops good, no squeeks... but for some reason when turning at a faster pace, my SLP light comes on and the car feels like it locks up and tries to straighten... which is bad when the car is turning because it throws the car a bit to the opposite direction of the curve. A week before that, I changed my inner tie rods for Megan inner tie rods, and my front wheel hubs/bearings... The car was good. At least I did not get any SLP or slip... Now, the car does not even have to be going all that fast around a corner but if the turn is a bit too much the SLP light comes on and the brakes automatically activate and the car tries to straighten up so it throws itself to the opposite direction of the curve on its own and I have to let go of the gas and try to lessen the turning angle... I do not understand what is wrong.

Last edited by gat0713; 11-08-2011 at 01:58 AM.
Old 11-07-2011, 11:34 PM
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i have the same problems, i got an alignment and brand new tires in the back only. The guy told me he aligned the front but couldn't do the back because it needs something that cost $450 to get the back tires aligned. so basically i just put new tires, it was all fine until i got to a corner and i was going really slow but traction control seems to be kicking in just like you say. it would be nice to know whats the problems here.
Old 11-09-2011, 03:06 PM
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Any thoughts? lol.
Old 11-09-2011, 03:32 PM
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Nothing is wrong. It's the car losing traction while turning and your traction control is kicking it. It's cold out now which makes it very easy to lose traction. Turn off VDC if you don't want the car to correct itself, but don't wrap your car around a pole!! Add a little more negative camber to give you a little more traction while cornering.
Old 11-09-2011, 04:15 PM
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Nothing is wrong. It's the car losing traction while turning and your traction control is kicking it. It's cold out now which makes it very easy to lose traction. Turn off VDC if you don't want the car to correct itself, but don't wrap your car around a pole!! Add a little more negative camber to give you a little more traction while cornering.
Well I live in Central America. lol It is by no means cold here. :P Hehe. The Temp is usually with in 82 degrees F in the morning and can go up to 100 degrees F around noon-1pm. Depending on the season. I have tried to turn VDC off but the SLP keeps coming on and trying to straighten the car. I would have to try again and see... As for the negative camber. That could be... What is the correct camber level it should be in front? I think I am close to or at -1 camber at front, 0 toe and 0 toe/camber on back.
Old 11-09-2011, 04:38 PM
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I believe OEM camber is around -0.6, I run -1.6 I believe. I get the slip light, but not too easily
Old 11-09-2011, 05:20 PM
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I believe OEM camber is around -0.6, I run -1.6 I believe. I get the slip light, but not too easily
Your car is a 2006 G35, Mine's a 2004 G35. It might differ on the camber specifications. I know that earlier model G35 and 350z had uneven tire ware issues due to the negative camber. But it is really annoying when you are trying to catch a curve and it activates. AS if there was no grip when there is.
Old 11-09-2011, 05:30 PM
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I run -1.6 as a choice.. My car is heavily modified. You should not run 0 camber, this is why you are losing traction while cornering. If you want some corner grip you need some negative camber. The OEM specs for camber have not changed, you should be around -0.6
Old 11-09-2011, 05:39 PM
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I run -1.6 as a choice.. My car is heavily modified. You should not run 0 camber, this is why you are losing traction while cornering. If you want some corner grip you need some negative camber. The OEM specs for camber have not changed, you should be around -0.6
I am running 0 on back. On front it is around -1... lol. As I had typed in earlier.
Old 11-11-2011, 08:35 PM
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Yes, I read . You should not run 0 in back..this will result in easy loss of traction during turning. It is good for straight line and tire life, but you'll easily kick out the rear end when cornering.
Old 11-11-2011, 10:40 PM
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Yes, I read . You should not run 0 in back..this will result in easy loss of traction during turning. It is good for straight line and tire life, but you'll easily kick out the rear end when cornering.
Hmmm...I see...
Lol my tires use to last around 4 months before and I dont even track the car... Street usage only. daily driver. I dont want that to happen again. lol.
Old 11-11-2011, 10:42 PM
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You can always drive slower when you turn. No need to turn a corner at 45mph
Old 11-14-2011, 12:08 PM
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Hmmm...I see...
Lol my tires use to last around 4 months before and I dont even track the car... Street usage only. daily driver. I dont want that to happen again. lol.
Then you'll have to sacrifice some cornering traction
Old 11-14-2011, 11:40 PM
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You can always drive slower when you turn. No need to turn a corner at 45mph
^+1 Especially on wet roads. Not a good idea, trust me, hahah.
Old 11-14-2011, 11:51 PM
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I had my inner tie rods replaced. ABS light and Slip light came on. Cleaned sensors and problem solved. Solution may be simpler than you think.

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2003, 2008, 350z, back, car, control, coupe, g35, g35xs, infiniti, infinitis, light, make, meaning, on, put, slp, tires, traction, turning
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