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Check this before your powertrain warranty is up!

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Old 07-10-2008, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bythabay
I'm actually not so sure the valve covers are plastic; I don't think they are plastic actually, but I could be wrong.
I sure hope they're not, but they sure do look like it on here, at least the inside of it...

http://panoramic-3d.ru/forums/archived-sales/228595-fs-brand-new-valve-cover.html
Old 07-10-2008, 02:04 PM
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I haven't done this yet, but after we take out the coil pack to see if it is leaking oil (like the video bythabay posted), in the case that there is a leak...do we just clean the oil off the coil pack, re-insert the coil pack, and call the dealer to set up an appointment?

Will it be okay to drive for a a week or two after cleaning off the oil and re-inserting the coil pack? The dealerships here take a week or two to set up an appointment.
Old 07-10-2008, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanguk9117
I haven't done this yet, but after we take out the coil pack to see if it is leaking oil (like the video bythabay posted), in the case that there is a leak...do we just clean the oil off the coil pack, re-insert the coil pack, and call the dealer to set up an appointment?

Will it be okay to drive for a a week or two after cleaning off the oil and re-inserting the coil pack? The dealerships here take a week or two to set up an appointment.
Well there could be two possible scenarios.

a) oil will be pooling between the valve cover and the spark plug tube, but won't actually pour into the tube over the spark plug

b) oil would have already accumulated past the point of pooling, and will start filling in the spark plug tube

if you have condition A, there is nothing needed, just re-assemble and explain the condition to your dealer.

if you have condition B, clean out as much of the oil as you can (by using a cloth or paper towel to suck up the oil, or some other means). Next, clean off the coil pack, and apply some dielectric grease to the inside of the coil pack where it would normally contact the top of the plug - this will help ensure a good electrical connection by displacing any oil that might enter the area.
Old 07-10-2008, 02:39 PM
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Awesome info.
Old 07-10-2008, 02:42 PM
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I'm assuming that these areas circled in red is where the plastic melts or warps causing an oil leak into the plugs?



I wonder if we can simply reposition the seal or O-rings....maybe apply some gasket sealant in these areas?

IMO, buying a new one will eventually melt and leak after being exposed to the heat. It's about $200 a cover for each side. If your out of warranty, that's $400 if your unfortunate to have leaks on both sides. That doesn't even include the gaskets. Man!... what a stupid design by nissan
Old 07-10-2008, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bythabay
Well there could be two possible scenarios.

a) oil will be pooling between the valve cover and the spark plug tube, but won't actually pour into the tube over the spark plug

b) oil would have already accumulated past the point of pooling, and will start filling in the spark plug tube

if you have condition A, there is nothing needed, just re-assemble and explain the condition to your dealer.

if you have condition B, clean out as much of the oil as you can (by using a cloth or paper towel to suck up the oil, or some other means). Next, clean off the coil pack, and apply some dielectric grease to the inside of the coil pack where it would normally contact the top of the plug - this will help ensure a good electrical connection by displacing any oil that might enter the area.
Thanks so much for all the info man. Your DIY's are incredible as well. Do we have to *re-calibrate* our throttle body like you did in one of your previous posts in this thread after checking the coil pack for oil leaks?

And is re-calibrating the throttle body any different for a 6MT vs 5AT?

Thanks again!
Old 07-10-2008, 03:11 PM
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I would assume that a low mileage car with 26,000 miles should not have this issue... Is this an incorrect assumption?
Old 07-11-2008, 01:50 AM
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Take solace the VQ engine is the only engine to be in Ward's Top 10 every year since competition started 14 yrs ago.

Old 07-11-2008, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanguk9117
Thanks so much for all the info man. Your DIY's are incredible as well. Do we have to *re-calibrate* our throttle body like you did in one of your previous posts in this thread after checking the coil pack for oil leaks?

And is re-calibrating the throttle body any different for a 6MT vs 5AT?

Thanks again!
The throttle body re-learn only needs to be done if you disconnect the wiring harness from the Throttlebody. The reason I mentioned it was because after the dealer replaced my valvecovers, they forgot to do the relearn on the throttlebody and so my idle was off. It's the same procedure for 6mt and 5at
Old 07-11-2008, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bocatrip
I would assume that a low mileage car with 26,000 miles should not have this issue... Is this an incorrect assumption?
It's probably more a function of time rather than mileage; I'd say you never know. This is the kind of thing I'd recommend checking before your warranty runs out,so you can save yourself the hassle of having to spend money on new valve covers & the time to replace them.
Old 07-11-2008, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bythabay
The throttle body re-learn only needs to be done if you disconnect the wiring harness from the Throttlebody. The reason I mentioned it was because after the dealer replaced my valvecovers, they forgot to do the relearn on the throttlebody and so my idle was off. It's the same procedure for 6mt and 5at
Gotcha, thanks again for all the help on this issue!
Old 07-11-2008, 01:55 PM
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maybe someone can volunteer to make some polished aluminum or stainless steel valve covers with replaceable o-rings?

Check this before your powertrain warranty is up!-chrome-like-polishing-valve-cover-19.jpg
Old 07-11-2008, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bythabay
The throttle body re-learn only needs to be done if you disconnect the wiring harness from the Throttlebody. The reason I mentioned it was because after the dealer replaced my valvecovers, they forgot to do the relearn on the throttlebody and so my idle was off. It's the same procedure for 6mt and 5at
this is what i wanted to verify and still confusing....some people that has disconnected the harness and even vigorously opened and closed the flap inside to clean it had no problems with idling, including myself.

http://panoramic-3d.ru/forums/engine-drivetrain-forced-induction/230164-high-idle-after-cleaning.html

is it disconnecting the battery? the harness? rev-up or non rev-up? opening and closing the flap inside when cleaning? It'd be great if we can narrow down the cause.
Old 07-11-2008, 02:22 PM
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^^^ Why not just perform the simple TB reset procedure when in doubt???
Old 07-11-2008, 02:29 PM
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I've read of some people having idling problems and can't recover even with the reset procedure. They were basically forced to go to the dealership.

Being out of warranty, I was just hoping that wouldn't happen to me in the future.

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911, coils, coupe, end, g35, link, melted, plug, powertrain, replacement, spark, tube, warranties, warranty, warrenry
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