I replaced my passenger side motor earlier this week. It started getting stuck down, and would take more and more "persuasion" to return upright.
Ordered the autozone part for $188 + $44 rebate when you return the core. They said they had to order from the factory, but the packaging was defiantly from some autozone warehouse, not factory fresh. The autozone part was identical to the OEM in terms of the motor, brackets, wiring, and even the rubber grommet. The replacement works quite well, but it was depressing putting in a "new" motor that looked MUCH more used than the one I pulled out. Now you know where your core charge goes... But, who is to argue with convince, not to mention protection from unpredictable Florida weather.
Replacement is easy enough. I suggest starting with your window down, as it will help with alignment after the new motor is installed. Steps (just in case there is no DIY):
1- Remove two plastic clips on the leading edge of the door (hidden when the door is closed)
2- Remove door trim "finisher" with a small, flat head screwdriver, starting at the lower, leading edge. You will find a small slot that is designed for this purpose.
3- Three 10mm sheet metal screws to remove. One is behind a small cover in the door handle, and two are now freshly exposed from behind the finisher.
4- Pop the lower door panel away from the door frame and work your way up the sides. Then lift vertical to remove the panel entirely.
6- Disconnect the two wiring harness connections that connect to the door panel, as well as the one that connects to the window motor itself. All connectors are different sizes, and polarized, so there is no confusion in the future.
7- Remove the three silver, course, philips head screws that held the door handle to the door panel. The motor replacement is much easier if you let the handle dangle by its cables. This way the door panel wont be in the way, and you can keep it from getting dirty/greasy.
8- Remove a dozed or so (dont remember the exact number) black/dark gray, 10mm bolts that run along the perimeter of the center steal door section. For reference, these bolts have machine threads and a washer attached.
9- Remove two shorter, brass colored 10mm, machine thread bolts. They are positioned at the upper front and upper back of this metal panel and are used to hold the upper window supports in place.
10- Remove the two 12mm brass colored nuts (one with washer) at the lower from and lower back of the panel. These nuts hold the lower window supports in place. A deep 12mm socket, or 12mm box wrench is probably necessary, as the bolts these reside on extend a little bit.
11- Remove the three 10mm brass colored bolts that are located in roughtly the center of the panel (a little closer towards teh front of the car if I recall. These three bolts hold the motor assembly to the door panel.
13- Push the motor wiring grommet through its hole and set the metal door panel aside.
12 - The window motor is attached with three philips screws. They were quite a PITA to remove. Try not to strip them.
This is just the reverse of the previous instructions, but with two things worth note.
1- The motor drives the window using a 3/8" square shaft. Make sure to lubricate the shaft and immediate surrounding area. Also, if the new shaft is not aligned with the old position, you can take a 3/8" drive socket wrench to rotate the window assembly a little bit.
2- Only thread a little bit of the three window motor bolts, then replace the two nuts, and two bolts that hold the window supports in place. This will make threading the nuts MUCH easier.
Hope this helps someone in the future. These forums have saved me a couple of trips to the autoparts store and it would be nice to repay the advice of others in kind.