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Window Motor. Autozone or OEM? And wheel opinions/offer

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Old 03-24-2008, 03:59 PM
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Window Motor. Autozone or OEM? And wheel opinions/offer

I have waited until weather warmed up, but now I must finally fix my broken window motor. Dealer asking $260 for part. I have seen threads on this mentioning Autozone part and I believe a dealer was selling these also on this site. Riverside maybe? Anybody use the autozone, or any recommendations. 2003 cpe., so no warranty left.

Also, a friend of mine may come into some Foose Nitrous wheels. I don't think they fit over Brembos. Anyway, I think they look better on Mustangs, but if anyone is interested he may get several sets of 20" and would sell them in the range of $1100-1300 for 4. Not sure on when he is getting them, but if interested I could put you in contact with him Here is a picture of the black ones:

Old 03-24-2008, 06:52 PM
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those wheels not for the G...
Old 03-24-2008, 07:20 PM
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Well, several tire/wheels sites advertise them for G35 w/out brembo. I don't like em much either.

I had a dog named Beebo believe it or not. Found him at train station.
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Old 03-24-2008, 07:21 PM
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What I really want to know is: Has anyone used the Autozone window motors?
Old 04-25-2008, 01:39 AM
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Bump. Any suggestions?
Old 04-25-2008, 10:51 AM
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I still haven't fixed it. Every once in a while the window works, and if I bang the door it will go back up. If I ever get the time, I may try to take the motor apart and clean it. Someone did that on here and it worked. Of course, that guy also built a "carputer", so we will see how I can F it up.

The wheels I was talking about are for sale on ebay now. $999 for 4 20" Foose Nitrous. I think they only fit non-brembo package. My buddy has 7 sets.
Old 04-25-2008, 11:00 AM
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47-1377
thats the part# at o reillys, try to have your people cross it over... It has a core charge on it so take your old one up there too...
Old 04-25-2008, 11:02 AM
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Banging the door to make the window go back up only lasts so long. Autozone for parts for the G/Z oh no way in h3ll. You get what you pay for from there. I'd go to the dealer anad bite the bullet.
Old 04-25-2008, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-Tech_G
Banging the door to make the window go back up only lasts so long. Autozone for parts for the G/Z oh no way in h3ll. You get what you pay for from there. I'd go to the dealer anad bite the bullet.
Why go to the dealer homie? Id order from Riverside Infiniti online and get a way cheaper price, with OEM guaranteed-quality.
Old 04-25-2008, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chilibowl
Why go to the dealer homie? Id order from Riverside Infiniti online and get a way cheaper price, with OEM guaranteed-quality.
I agree and isn't riverside an infiniti dealer? I thought they were...
Old 04-25-2008, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breftayka
47-1377
thats the part# at o reillys, try to have your people cross it over... It has a core charge on it so take your old one up there too...
Awesome, thank you for being specific and helpful
Old 04-25-2008, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breftayka
I agree and isn't riverside an infiniti dealer? I thought they were...
Yes they are, but they sell parts online for much cheaper than what you would pay in-person at a dealer
Old 04-25-2008, 02:17 PM
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ebay
Old 04-26-2008, 01:21 AM
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I replaced my passenger side motor earlier this week. It started getting stuck down, and would take more and more "persuasion" to return upright.

Ordered the autozone part for $188 + $44 rebate when you return the core. They said they had to order from the factory, but the packaging was defiantly from some autozone warehouse, not factory fresh. The autozone part was identical to the OEM in terms of the motor, brackets, wiring, and even the rubber grommet. The replacement works quite well, but it was depressing putting in a "new" motor that looked MUCH more used than the one I pulled out. Now you know where your core charge goes... But, who is to argue with convince, not to mention protection from unpredictable Florida weather.

Replacement is easy enough. I suggest starting with your window down, as it will help with alignment after the new motor is installed. Steps (just in case there is no DIY):
Removal
1- Remove two plastic clips on the leading edge of the door (hidden when the door is closed)
2- Remove door trim "finisher" with a small, flat head screwdriver, starting at the lower, leading edge. You will find a small slot that is designed for this purpose.
3- Three 10mm sheet metal screws to remove. One is behind a small cover in the door handle, and two are now freshly exposed from behind the finisher.
4- Pop the lower door panel away from the door frame and work your way up the sides. Then lift vertical to remove the panel entirely.
6- Disconnect the two wiring harness connections that connect to the door panel, as well as the one that connects to the window motor itself. All connectors are different sizes, and polarized, so there is no confusion in the future.
7- Remove the three silver, course, philips head screws that held the door handle to the door panel. The motor replacement is much easier if you let the handle dangle by its cables. This way the door panel wont be in the way, and you can keep it from getting dirty/greasy.
8- Remove a dozed or so (dont remember the exact number) black/dark gray, 10mm bolts that run along the perimeter of the center steal door section. For reference, these bolts have machine threads and a washer attached.
9- Remove two shorter, brass colored 10mm, machine thread bolts. They are positioned at the upper front and upper back of this metal panel and are used to hold the upper window supports in place.
10- Remove the two 12mm brass colored nuts (one with washer) at the lower from and lower back of the panel. These nuts hold the lower window supports in place. A deep 12mm socket, or 12mm box wrench is probably necessary, as the bolts these reside on extend a little bit.
11- Remove the three 10mm brass colored bolts that are located in roughtly the center of the panel (a little closer towards teh front of the car if I recall. These three bolts hold the motor assembly to the door panel.
13- Push the motor wiring grommet through its hole and set the metal door panel aside.
12 - The window motor is attached with three philips screws. They were quite a PITA to remove. Try not to strip them.

Assembly
This is just the reverse of the previous instructions, but with two things worth note.
1- The motor drives the window using a 3/8" square shaft. Make sure to lubricate the shaft and immediate surrounding area. Also, if the new shaft is not aligned with the old position, you can take a 3/8" drive socket wrench to rotate the window assembly a little bit.
2- Only thread a little bit of the three window motor bolts, then replace the two nuts, and two bolts that hold the window supports in place. This will make threading the nuts MUCH easier.

Hope this helps someone in the future. These forums have saved me a couple of trips to the autoparts store and it would be nice to repay the advice of others in kind.
-Boog
Old 04-26-2008, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomorecars4now
What I really want to know is: Has anyone used the Autozone window motors?
Yes, they are re-manufactured OEM window motors with a lifetime warranty. It's a good deal since we'll all be replacing the motors at least once (per side) during the car's lifetime.

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350z, aligned, auto, autozone, buy, cracked, g35, led, motor, motors, partselectric, tyre, wheel, window, zone
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