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No compression in cylinder 4!!!

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Old 11-09-2011, 02:48 PM
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No compression in cylinder 4!!!

So my mechanic did the compression test on my car and said cylinder 4 was showing 30, meaning there was no compression in the cylinder and hence the misfire

He believes the problem is the valve and not the piston rings and said its a $2,500 fix but recommended against it since my car has 130K miles on it

What you do guys suggest I should do? Any other fix available? Is there anything I can test?

A new engine?

Drive till the car dies?... but unfortunately it is giving me freaking 14-15mpg right now and I don't think I can afford to drive a guzzler like that.

Thanks in advance for any input(s)!!
Old 11-09-2011, 03:10 PM
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I believe the FSM suggests pouring a little oil in the cylinder then doing the compression test again. If compression significantly increases with the oil then you have piston/ring problems, if it stays the same you have a valve issue. I would try that first.

If you need the exact info let me know and ill try to dig it up.

Goodluck!
-Rob
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onevoice (11-10-2011)
Old 11-09-2011, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Z1Motorsports View Post
I believe the FSM suggests pouring a little oil in the cylinder then doing the compression test again. If compression significantly increases with the oil then you have piston/ring problems, if it stays the same you have a valve issue. I would try that first.

If you need the exact info let me know and ill try to dig it up.

Goodluck!
-Rob
The mechanic thinks its the valve so I have no other option but to believe him. I don't own a compression test meter so can't do it on my own. Assuming he is correct, what do you suggest I should do?

Does $2,500 sound reasonable? Or should I just look for a new engine and drive the car as little as possible? Or sell it for whatever I can get?

Thanks!
Old 11-09-2011, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by onevoice View Post
The mechanic thinks its the valve so I have no other option but to believe him. I don't own a compression test meter so can't do it on my own. Assuming he is correct, what do you suggest I should do?

Does $2,500 sound reasonable? Or should I just look for a new engine and drive the car as little as possible? Or sell it for whatever I can get?

Thanks!
If it were me and i was 100% it was valve related, I would look around for a used head, they aren't *that* hard to come by, just replace the entire head since actually fixing the one you have would likely cost more in labor. Its still a pretty big job but it can be done in the car in about a day.

Labor wise i would say around 12hours for an experienced VQ mechanic + whatever you can get the parts for. I really think you can find a used head if your patient, just make sure its within specs for levelness.

Goodluck! Let me know if I can help you with anything!
-Rob
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onevoice (11-10-2011)
Old 11-10-2011, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Z1Motorsports View Post
If it were me and i was 100% it was valve related, I would look around for a used head, they aren't *that* hard to come by, just replace the entire head since actually fixing the one you have would likely cost more in labor. Its still a pretty big job but it can be done in the car in about a day.

Labor wise i would say around 12hours for an experienced VQ mechanic + whatever you can get the parts for. I really think you can find a used head if your patient, just make sure its within specs for levelness.

Goodluck! Let me know if I can help you with anything!
-Rob
Thanks for the info! What is the technical term for this part? Is it simply called the 'head'?

Also what do you think would be a better route? Buy a used engine, replace the head, or replace the valve on the cylinder?

One last thing, can I damage anything else besides the already damaged engine if I continue to drive the car? Or should I try to fix (whichever route I choose) ASAP?
Old 11-10-2011, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by onevoice View Post
Thanks for the info! What is the technical term for this part? Is it simply called the 'head'?

Also what do you think would be a better route? Buy a used engine, replace the head, or replace the valve on the cylinder?

One last thing, can I damage anything else besides the already damaged engine if I continue to drive the car? Or should I try to fix (whichever route I choose) ASAP?
If the valve is stuck open, causing a constant misfire I would not continue to drive the car. This condition could cause cylinder wash and kill your bearings (among other issues).

Yes its just called a Cylinder head. I wouldn't suggest trying to repair the valve in the current head because 1) it would likely cost more overall since it would take much longer and 2) I wouldn't trust just any mechanic to do such a job.

You could also buy a used engine, and it probably wouldn't cost much more overall than replacing the head, but with tons of VQs out there with spun bearings and/or oil consumption its kinda risky. It would be hard to know that your getting a good reliable one, that's why i say if your bottom end is fine, just replace the head, that way at least you know what you have.

-Rob
Old 11-10-2011, 05:42 PM
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[QUOTE=onevoice;6205337]So my mechanic did the compression test on my car and said cylinder 4 was showing 30, meaning there was no compression in the cylinder and hence the misfire

it could be a BENT valve stem, could be broken compression ring( top slot), could be blown head gasket...BUT it could be just a small chunk of carbon stuck on valve lip....try a can of Rislone for about 60 miles...drive slow and let this stuff work in.. cost u about 3 bucks, worked for me in the past..try it u might be surprised...write back and let us know.
Old 11-11-2011, 07:44 AM
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[quote=slim17265;6207196]
Quote:
Originally Posted by onevoice View Post
So my mechanic did the compression test on my car and said cylinder 4 was showing 30, meaning there was no compression in the cylinder and hence the misfire

it could be a BENT valve stem, could be broken compression ring( top slot), could be blown head gasket...BUT it could be just a small chunk of carbon stuck on valve lip....try a can of Rislone for about 60 miles...drive slow and let this stuff work in.. cost u about 3 bucks, worked for me in the past..try it u might be surprised...write back and let us know.
Rislone fuel injector can? I simply pour it in when I fill up the car, right?

EDIT: I also found Rislone compression repair, Rislone ring seal and Rislone engine treatment. I am assuming you are talking about the compression repair one?

Last edited by onevoice; 11-11-2011 at 07:48 AM.
Old 11-11-2011, 10:41 AM
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Seems rather pricey. I wouldn't bother fixing your high mileage motor. Find a lower mileage engine and swap it in. Might cost more but it will last way longer and add a little value to the car.
Old 11-11-2011, 07:25 PM
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[quote=onevoice;6208009]
Quote:
Originally Posted by slim17265 View Post

Rislone fuel injector can? I simply pour it in when I fill up the car, right?

EDIT: I also found Rislone compression repair, Rislone ring seal and Rislone engine treatment. I am assuming you are talking about the compression repair one?
I believe you want engine treatment it is basically 90% kerosene and 10 Xyline. nothing cuts carbon quicker...try it.
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Old 12-09-2013, 03:00 PM
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Going way back here (holy thread revival), but I am having the same problem, waiting to take my engine apart this weekend. What ended up happening with yours? I pretty much have the same exact problem, just different cylinder.
Old 12-17-2013, 03:52 PM
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What the hell is it with these cars and cylinder #4. I lost ALL compression in cylinder #4 with less than 120Kmiles on my '04, turns out the engine ate a big chunk of the exhaust valve on cylinder #4.

I did the work myself with my brother, but I fixed mine.

Here's the thread : http://panoramic-3d.ru/forums/g35-sed...back-road.html

Good luck, keep us posted please.

DBarnes

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4, bad, car, compresion, compression, cylinder, engine, fixed, g35, general, misfire, problems, repair, rislone, treatment
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