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DIY : Possible creaking seat fix

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Old 12-29-2009, 08:56 PM
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I'm very close to contacting a welder friend...

I'd appreciate any input as to why welding a bead along the inner bracket-to-rail "seam" would be a bad idea.

TIA
Old 01-20-2010, 10:49 AM
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One more area to check - VERY IMPORTANT!

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I loosened the rear side mounting bolts under the seat and noticed the top of the bracket has a machine-pressed pivot point. After further inspection, I determined that the very loud and extremely irritating creaking noise was coming from that - looks like it was getting kinda rusty and loose - and it's really just metal on metal there, so rust is not good. I was able to lift the seat up enough to lift the bracket from the floor mount bolts and then you can spin it back and forth. I sprayed it with liquid wrench, wd40, then doused it in oil; generously applied oil to bolts, bracket and nuts as well, and reinstalled it all. This worked like a charm - NOT A SINGLE squeak or creak!! I think that loosening the mount bolts and pushing the bracket away from the door sill and re-tightening does help in the short run, but only because you've changed the angle of the pivot point slightly and the noise will go away - but only temporarily. You MUST address the pivot point to get rid of this noise. Good luck.
Old 01-27-2010, 01:04 AM
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My seat just recently started creaking and I went and tightened the two mounting bolts and the cross brace bolt at the rear left but it still creaked. I went ahead and figured I do the front left mounting bolts and that cross brace bolt but that didn't work either. I ended up taking the caps off the rear and front bolts on the left side that actually hold the seat rails to the body of the car and tighten them up and what do ya know, silence! These were pretty loose when I tightened them up. But it seemed that when I tightened the front bolt the creaking stopped. We'll see how long it lasts before it starts creaking again.
Old 01-27-2010, 01:23 PM
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niice im gonna try this real soon
Old 02-10-2010, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazzr View Post
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I loosened the rear side mounting bolts under the seat and noticed the top of the bracket has a machine-pressed pivot point. After further inspection, I determined that the very loud and extremely irritating creaking noise was coming from that - looks like it was getting kinda rusty and loose - and it's really just metal on metal there, so rust is not good. I was able to lift the seat up enough to lift the bracket from the floor mount bolts and then you can spin it back and forth. I sprayed it with liquid wrench, wd40, then doused it in oil; generously applied oil to bolts, bracket and nuts as well, and reinstalled it all. This worked like a charm - NOT A SINGLE squeak or creak!! I think that loosening the mount bolts and pushing the bracket away from the door sill and re-tightening does help in the short run, but only because you've changed the angle of the pivot point slightly and the noise will go away - but only temporarily. You MUST address the pivot point to get rid of this noise. Good luck.
What is this pivot point? Any pictures? I'm going to get under there today so I can hopefully see what you're talking about. I'm going to tighten absolutely every damn bolt under there and see what happens.
Old 02-16-2010, 11:42 PM
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I was having that issue too, especially when there was alot of movement going on ...but yea finally fixed! Good write up!
Old 03-07-2010, 11:33 PM
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so the creaking is not likely due to the bottom seat frame (where the cushion sits atop), but the driver's seat lifters and link assembly units?
Old 03-08-2010, 11:13 AM
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Correct. there is a TSB out there to replace the linkage and pivots. Basically, if you take the trim off the seat and lube the pivots, it will fix the squeak temporarily. I used Dupont stuff and it got rid of it completely for about 6 months and came back although the noise is very faint. I think if you mix up some WD-40 and liquid graphite, it should fix it permanently. I will post a DIY when I get around to re-lubing it.
Old 03-08-2010, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigd2k6 View Post
Correct. there is a TSB out there to replace the linkage and pivots. Basically, if you take the trim off the seat and lube the pivots, it will fix the squeak temporarily. I used Dupont stuff and it got rid of it completely for about 6 months and came back although the noise is very faint. I think if you mix up some WD-40 and liquid graphite, it should fix it permanently. I will post a DIY when I get around to re-lubing it.
thx for the info, a future diy would be appreciated. I am about 6 months out of warranty. Infiniti rejected goodwill fix. Dealer says that the tsb of replacing the linkage and pivots does not fix the problem in their experience and say that the only real way to get rid of the creak is to replace the whole lower frame assembly, more that $1k to do. thoughts?

I was going to have the trim taken off and the seat moved up to take a look around the linkage to see if there is a visible tear/damage and go from there.
Old 03-08-2010, 09:33 PM
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I thought $250 parts and 4-5 hours labor I was quoted was a bit high, but 1 grand? I bought the front and rear lifters listed in their TSB (thought I posted a link to that elsewhere). In any case whether you do your own work or pay someone to do it, the seat dissasembky is time consuuming but not that hard. I got NIB dealer parts online from a place in IL, IIRC.

There's two at least possible problems - the lifters and the lower frame or what everything bolts onto. See others in this thread for how they removed their squeaks.

Mine was pretty straightforward, front lifter is broken so I am replacing it myself. I will take some good pics as I usually do when I take something apart like that, but there is nothing trick that I can see. Guess I will find out
Old 03-08-2010, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigd2k6 View Post
Correct. there is a TSB out there to replace the linkage and pivots. Basically, if you take the trim off the seat and lube the pivots, it will fix the squeak temporarily. I used Dupont stuff and it got rid of it completely for about 6 months and came back although the noise is very faint. I think if you mix up some WD-40 and liquid graphite, it should fix it permanently. I will post a DIY when I get around to re-lubing it.
Pop the front trim piece after reading the FSM if you're unsure how, raise the seat up as high as it goes, move the steering up first for more room. Put the seat all the way back before you move it up, that pretty much gives you good access to the pivots.

Prob a temp fix with most lubes unless you've got something like your mix. I wonder if the stuff originally made for jamming AR-15's and M-16's would work. Moly and graphite in suspension, Dri-Slide is the trade name IIRC. It may be a little too fine for enough to stick around. I used it for years on my semi-auto rifles just around the slides on the blowback, it worked great there. Jamming is usually caused when it doesn't move quickly enough back so it catches the shell on the return trip, a little trivia...
Old 03-08-2010, 09:51 PM
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Driver seat tsb/itb location

ITB02080- original SB
Type: Coupe and Sedan
Component: DRIVER SEAT
Summary: DRIVER SEAT ROCKS
IF YOU CONFIRM: The driver seat cushion feels loose; • "Rocks" back and forth and/or makes a "pop" / "click" noise. • Usually when the vehicle accelerates from a stop or when making a turn.
Action: Replace the front Seat Lifter Link Bracket Assembly with a new one-P/N 87463-AM501.

has most all the TSB's online for download:


you have to register and free reg gets you two files downloaded a day

search on Keywords: "noise rocks seat" since that is how it's tagged.

ITB02080D
2003-2006 INFINITI G35 SEDAN AND 2003 - 2007 G35 COUPE; DRIVER’S SEAT NOISE AND/OR ROCKS BACK AND FORTH
The driver’s seat cushion feels loose;
• “Rocks” back and forth and/or makes a “pop”, “click”, “creak” or “clunk” noise.
• If it occurs, it usually happens when the vehicle accelerates from a stop or when making a turn.

Note this shows the components in good detail with photos, so even if you don't think it applies, a good resource.

Ironically today was the first day I used it in a long time and used up my 2 downloads, lol!

HTH
Old 03-09-2010, 01:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveZ View Post
I thought $250 parts and 4-5 hours labor I was quoted was a bit high, but 1 grand? I bought the front and rear lifters listed in their TSB (thought I posted a link to that elsewhere). In any case whether you do your own work or pay someone to do it, the seat dissasembky is time consuuming but not that hard. I got NIB dealer parts online from a place in IL, IIRC.

There's two at least possible problems - the lifters and the lower frame or what everything bolts onto. See others in this thread for how they removed their squeaks.

Mine was pretty straightforward, front lifter is broken so I am replacing it myself. I will take some good pics as I usually do when I take something apart like that, but there is nothing trick that I can see. Guess I will find out
Well, the number the dealer quoted me was not for the TSB fix, but for something more, including lifter actuator or the actual seat frame or something else--more than just what the tsb calls for. They said they could do the tsb for cheaper, but that there is no guarantee it would fix the creak. They said they performed that TSB in the past and that it rarely worked at fixing creaks They said the only way to completely be free of creaks is going to cost over $1,000, like $1200-$1600 or something ridiculous like that.

They offered to take apart the front trim and to see if there is any visible damage to the lifters, before I make a decision. It's frustrating b/c I am 6 months out of warranty with only ~24k miles on the car. When I brought my car in a few weeks ago for the creak and movement, a tech took a test drive with me and said he knew what the problem was. They got this goodwilled through Infiniti at no charge to me (they replaced the seatback frame because they said it was bent and they also got approved the leather trim piece becuase it was damaged during repair of the seatback frame).

However, when I got my car back there was less creaking for 1 day, then there was and is much more creaking now! It always creaks when I get out of the car, when making turns, and when accelerating fast or going over bumps. It also creaks a lot and sounds like there is some interference when using the power controls for seat operation (only when I am sitting in the seat), especially when the seat is adjusted all the way forward/back or up/down (tilt/height adjustment). Sometimes I will be driving and there will be constant creaking--very annoying. There does not seem to be any excess movement in the seat however.

The dealer says there is a new warranty approver and a new system for requesting goodwill approvals (that went into effect after the seatback frame was replaced). I was told that the new system was rejecting a lot of requests. They put in a request to goodwill the $1k job they say is needed to fix the creak. I was told the request was rejected and I'm out of luck.

Is there a way I can tell if the problem is due to the lifters or the frame before having a repair work performed? I looked at the liftter and links and frame there was no visible tears or rust, just some kind of shavings coating the rails.

Last edited by jonnylaw; 03-09-2010 at 03:11 AM.
Old 10-07-2010, 01:01 PM
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I'll try this, this weekend. This rocking seat has been annoying me almost since I got the car.
Old 04-06-2011, 06:08 PM
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Also going to leave a thanks for this thread. I haven't made any adjustments yet, but now I know what to look for.

These past couple days I've wanted to rip my seat out and toss it down the road.. that squeaking gets annoying (and embarrassing with passengers).

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