Climate Control/Radio Repair DIY - - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion | panoramic-3d.ru
Show Your Support Become A Premier Member

    > >
  • Reload this Page >
    • Climate Control/Radio Repair DIY


Climate Control/Radio Repair DIY

Thread Tools Rate Thread
Old 10-15-2011, 09:31 PM
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
location: London, Ontario
Posts: 53
Thanked 10 Times in 1 Post
Climate Control/Radio Repair DIY

03 sedan, nissan audio part numer: PN-2459, here's the schematic:



I had the dreaded climate control/radio problem, where my climate was stuck and nothing was working, climate buttons, radio, or anything.

The problem was on the power supply. The board had this weird burnt colour, and three resistors were literally sitting up. I wish I had my camera to take pictures. They were surface mount, and I guess from so much heat they got de-soldered, it was soldered on one side, and it was sitting like a good 4mm up on the other, and the other two you could tell there was no connection to the PCB pad, it was R508 (75 Ohm 1/8W), R509, R510 (22 Ohm 1/8w)

If you open it up, these resistors are bigger then all the other resistors. It's only three of them. If you know how to solder it's extremely simple, just clean with acetone, or alcohol, and resolder them, and it works like a charm.

Whatever I suspected that could make a cold joint (these boards are manufactured on a machine, and very little solder is used for the components), I added more solder.

I am about to wait and see if it's gonna continue to work, but I think this is simple, and with little electronics knowledge it can be fixed. This is why they charge 150-300 to fix this very simple problem.

I hope this helps!

Here's the location on the board:


Last edited by Wrathernaut; 01-06-2015 at 12:07 PM. Reason: fixed image link
The Following 10 Users Say Thank You to equilibrium For This Useful Post:
Blue Dream (10-18-2011), G35Papa (10-16-2011), KingCallero (03-26-2013), pntballg35 (10-16-2011), ProBballChamp (04-26-2017), slim17265 (10-17-2011), TunerMax (06-16-2013), Wrathernaut (03-26-2013), ybarniv1 (05-08-2013), zlikovski (02-10-2013)
Old 10-17-2011, 12:55 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
location: Baltimore
Posts: 206
Thanked 20 Times in 11 Posts
Thanks for the tip. I have been thinking that the problem is from too much heat on the radio.

I now have a Sony after-market radio and whenever I use the heat in the winter blowing at my feet that Sony gets so hot that I will burn my finger touching it.

That area behind the radio must be getting way too hot for the factory radio and eventually it breaks.

I still have the factory radio in my garage, it's in pieces, but maybe I can checked it now and fix it.
Old 10-18-2011, 12:25 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
location: Baltimore
Posts: 206
Thanked 20 Times in 11 Posts
Actually is probably something else too. The radios had been known to drain the battery.
If I didn't drive for a couple of days I couldn't start the car because the battery was dead.

As soon as I got rid of the OEM radio, that never happened again even after one month not driving the car.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanm8 View Post
I had my radio repaired at a shop shortly after buying my car over 2 years ago and it has worked flawless since. Even the CD changer works perfect. It really probably is as simple as those resistors.
Old 02-10-2013, 08:49 PM
zlikovski's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thank you! I've had exactly the same problem. The lights and controls on my 2003 G35 sedan would come and go, but it started in the summer so I assumed it was heat related. When it happened in the middle of the winter without signs of improving, I broke. One of the 22 Ohm resistors was disconnected. Re-soldering fixed it, at least for now. CD changer is still inoperable - the typical CD ERR F0.
Those resistors are tiny. One will need a steady hand and a sharp soldering iron.
Old 02-25-2013, 01:56 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
id like to try this out however im not quite certain how to access the power supply. ive tried the ribbon cutting trick because i have my display/radio buttons intermittently stop working (AC controls work fine). so i know how to remove my dash and separate the stereo from the finisher board, however from that point on, im not sure what to do. any help will be appreciated!

EDIT: also, is this fix applicable to the Bose units or non-Bose?
Old 06-15-2013, 09:54 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts
I encountered the battery drain issue as well.

My AC controls are working perfectly. It appears to be an intermittent battery drain issue for me.

I took apart the dash and took the audio system out. I will be taking it apart tonight.

Updating here: http://panoramic-3d.ru/forums/audio-v...ow-what-3.html

Last edited by quanttrom; 06-16-2013 at 04:13 AM.
Old 07-16-2013, 05:15 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 14
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 2 Posts
Original Poster - - EXCELLENT FIND! This is 99% positively the problem with my '03 G35 coupe, Bose. I have the standard prob where the A/C temp cant be changed, and stereo is dead. I actually found a few months ago if you disconnect the middle ribbon cable going between the tape and CD units, it disables the CD, and everything else works fine.

I came across your post, and being an avid electronics guy and good at soldering, I checked those surface-mount resistors, and BAM, you're dead on: R508, R509, and R510 are loose. very light pressure on them from the side reveals that although they look okay, they're actually desoldered. I'll be doing this repair in the next day or two, and will post back. Here's a picture of the 3 SMR's in question.

The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to jbishop129 For This Useful Post:
Hydroshock (10-13-2013), ProBballChamp (04-26-2017), TBark (08-14-2013), TunerMax (07-17-2013), Wrathernaut (07-16-2013)
Old 07-16-2013, 07:17 PM
DanielleDiva's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
location: ALBANY NEW YORK
Posts: 4
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
glad i could help. Soldier might not hold long tho I had to redo after a few months then just went aftermarket with the ugly metra kit. Everything's perfect since!
Old 07-16-2013, 08:59 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts
Have a look at the video I posted in the other thread. It might shed a bit more light

The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to quanttrom For This Useful Post:
Hydroshock (10-13-2013), TBark (08-15-2013), TunerMax (04-06-2014)
Old 07-16-2013, 10:46 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 14
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 2 Posts
good work , how has that repair worked for you? I see your YouTube video is from about 3 weeks ago; let us know how your Bose unit has been working.

I went ahead and reflowed those 3 surface-mount resistors in question in my picture earlier, and also went ahead and hit all of the SMR's on that board of that size that I could hit, since there easily could be a cold solder joint in one of them. As suggests in his video on the topic of pick-and-place automated circuit building, they may have had an incorrect heat profile when they originally built these (extremely likely they did, since the DOA rate on these is through the roof), so I figured I would hit all of these in one pass.

So far so good. my CD player is back to normal, I went for a drive this evening, about an hour, and no strange behavior at all.

I'll update in a few days, or sooner if anything goes sideways before then.

, let us know how yours is working? It seems like you're going down a different path with replacing the 5v voltage regulator, I'm wondering how that is coming along.
Old 07-16-2013, 11:27 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbishop129 View Post
, let us know how yours is working? It seems like you're going down a different path with replacing the 5v voltage regulator, I'm wondering how that is coming along.
It has been working like a charm ! No issues whatsoever !
Btw, I didn't replace the 5V regulator, I just replaced the R509 and R510 resistors with a single high wattage resistor. The circuit remains largely unchanged.

On a second though and reviewing the schematic I would say that this issue is largely because of improper corner case design. Specifically high heat dissipation combined with high ambient temperatures and I don't think it's related to improper solder mask/reflow job. It just looks like it is..

TL; DL : Re-flowing is NOT enough to ensure long term reliability and durability and keep the unit working for long. It's more of a temporary band-aid solution.
Old 07-16-2013, 11:53 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts
try swapping out the 2 resistors with this single resistor and this might provide for a longer term fix:



The 11 ohm version would be a better fit but it seems to be a non-stock part.
The Following User Says Thank You to quanttrom For This Useful Post:
TunerMax (07-17-2013)
Old 07-17-2013, 10:27 AM
Wrathernaut's Avatar
Gentle Manne of Leisure
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2008
location: Very Southern Arizona
Posts: 7,784
Thanked 939 Times in 552 Posts
Would it be enough to just add a heatsink to those resistors before the radio fails? or is the flow through them, whether they've failed or not, going to be responsible for other failed parts?
Old 07-17-2013, 12:34 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts
Putting a heatsink on those resistors would be difficult because the pins are exposed on the top side. If you put a conductive heatsink you will short them effectively removing the resistors out of the circuit.
If you find a NON electrically conductive heatsink you have yourself a long-term solution !!

I doubt other parts will be affected by the failure of the resistors. The radio just looses power and fails pretty much. When R509 R510 fail it is possible that it puts extra stress on the 75 ohm resistor (R508) until it cannot handle it and de-solders itself as well !
Old 07-17-2013, 09:54 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 14
Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 2 Posts
My understanding of the overall problem is, we are not dealing with a component itself failing, or excessive heat of said component, but rather failure of the solder joint of surface-mount components (albeit that failure may be caused by heat).

That being said, my feeling is a heat sink is not the answer. At this point in the repair discovery process, I am of the opinion that fixing the solder joint itself is the long-term solution. In my case, I opted to re-flow the existing joints and add additional solder to make the joint more robust.

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
DIY: Remove Gas Pump to Clean Sending Unit & Clear P0463 Code RemmyZero V36 DIY 8 01-19-2018 11:08 PM
FS: 05-06 JDM DDin Dash Kit & AVH-x5700BHS & more Ninjay16 Audio/Video/Electronics 10 08-15-2017 05:01 PM
Bad wheel bearing? Opinions please! (Video+Audio) Marlin84 Wheels & Tires 29 03-05-2017 05:17 PM
Replacement HID Assembly or Housing for 2003? jeffbdye G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 4 10-16-2015 07:35 PM
FS: JDM double din 03-04 and Pioneer z150bh BfloG35 Audio/Video/Electronics 2 10-16-2015 06:22 PM


Tags
2003, black, board, buy, cheap, climate, control, display, fix, g35, inop, nissan, part, pn2459, radio, resistor, solder
Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:56 PM.


Copyright ©2002 - 2017, panoramic-3d.ru All Rights Reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in:

Related pages


nessen forged rimssa 12 subwooferwhere is the quarter panel located on a carnormal idle rpmsexy crotch rocketpowerstop brake calipers2 step limiterfobkeyless2004 infiniti g35x reviewtpms retrofittransmission change vs flushblock heater installation anchoragedr colorshiphow do i find my xm radio iddiy pillarsmuffler delete 350ziridium spark plugs vs platinumcoolant bleeder screwadjusting coilover shocks2007 infiniti g35 coupe reviewjdm of orlandostillen intake g35muffler insert silencersteering wheel audio controls not workingrpt radiog35 widebodyreviews on raceland coiloversbrake lights wont turn offwhy does my car shake at 60 mphwhat is negative offset on wheelsoem wheel offsetdefine ecuhow to reset an airbag lightcalifornia window tint lawsrims for 2004 acura tlvacuum leak smokecar alarms tampant03 enkei2jz swap kitkyb strut reviewnitto motivocastrol edge syntec 5w 30achilles tires review350z final driveescort passport x50hid d2s350z pistonssigns of a bad camshaft position sensorhow to keep a door from swinging shutgeneral gmax as 03 tirestilton clutchr1 brake rotorsused sundown audiomuteki sr48 lug nutsare bendix brake pads goodnismo v22007 altima recallslightest drag wheelsrockford p1000craigslist.org whistlercamshaft position sensor bank 2tsw thruxtonblemished tires for salecar hesitates while drivingwhere is crankshaft sensor located350z front lip spoilerunmarry cobb accessportmobil 1 sludgemtx thunder 3202giovanni rimcan you get full coverage insurance on a rebuilt titleinfiniti g37 skyline