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Option A, B, or C???

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Old 11-10-2010, 08:25 PM
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Option A, B, or C???

I'm new to the G scene, just purchased an 03 w/ Bose Coupe and I need some stereo advice because I am honestly quite confused. The way I see it I have 3 options and before I go out buying and committing to things I need to know which I am going to be the happiest with.

Current system:
Headunit: Pioneer DD AVIC-X710BT
Speakers: All factory Bose
Amp: Bose
With this setup, I can have the headunit turned all the way up and still have a conversation over the audio. From what I've read that is because the Bose amp with the aftermarket HU doesn't like the signal like it likes from the factory.

Option A:
5 channel JL amp powering the FACTORY doors, FACTORY rear sides, and 1 JL 10" (rear deck speakers removed as recommended)

Option B:
5 channel JL amp powering upgraded comps front, upgraded rear sides, and 1 JL 10" (rear deck speakers removed as recommended)

Option C:
Sub amp only powering JL 10" while leaving factory Bose amp/speakers in place?

I don't want to spend more than I need to but if it's going to require the purchase for me to be happy then I will. I guess my main question through all of this is: will powering the Bose speakers from an aftermarket amp sound like garbage or will it make them sound more like they were supposed to from the factory headunit?
Old 11-10-2010, 09:30 PM
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I'm no expert, but check out this link:

http://panoramic-3d.ru/forums/audio-v...urce-list.html

...and read the first section of this:
http://panoramic-3d.ru/forums/5036315-post3.html

If you purchase the PAC ROEM-NIS2 from amazon (
) you should be able to keep your factory speakers and amp and it will work with your aftermarket head unit.

This should be the cheapest solution to fix your situation.

Last edited by samm; 11-10-2010 at 09:39 PM.
Old 11-10-2010, 09:31 PM
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No purpose in amping factory speakers or adding rears.

Option D:

Processor to clean up the signal, Better eq and time alignment
Components upfront or raw drivers. I prefer the latter. Not noob friendly, though.
4 channel amp or 4 channel + 2 or mono amp if going with raw drivers
single 8,10, or 12.
Old 11-10-2010, 10:51 PM
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Option B... A decent set of components will sound WAY better than the crap Bose calls a speaker that is in your door now...
Old 11-11-2010, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samm View Post
I'm no expert, but check out this link:

http://panoramic-3d.ru/forums/audio-v...urce-list.html

...and read the first section of this:
http://panoramic-3d.ru/forums/5036315-post3.html

If you purchase the PAC ROEM-NIS2 from amazon () you should be able to keep your factory speakers and amp and it will work with your aftermarket head unit.

This should be the cheapest solution to fix your situation.
That is AWESOME information...thank you! I had no idea that existed but they certainly didn't use something like that when they installed my deck. It's so quiet!

So like you said it would be the cheapest solution to fix my problem...are you running that setup with an aftermarket sub? Are you happy with it or do you also feel that the stock speakers are garbage? I don't even have a reference point since I've never actually gotten to hear them how they should sound!
Old 11-11-2010, 12:26 AM
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Old 11-11-2010, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggyhustles View Post
No purpose in amping factory speakers or adding rears.

Option D:

Processor to clean up the signal, Better eq and time alignment
Components upfront or raw drivers. I prefer the latter. Not noob friendly, though.
4 channel amp or 4 channel + 2 or mono amp if going with raw drivers
single 8,10, or 12.
Soooooo you're kinda contradicting yourself....Don't amp up factory speakers but also saying don't add rears....So replace the fronts, add an amp, and through all the speakers (including the factory rears) on that amp?
Old 11-11-2010, 01:20 AM
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No, dude. Ditch the rears completely.

If you went with raw drivers, you would need a 4 channel amp since each speaker needs to be amped on it's own channel. If you went with a component set that comes with a passive crossover, you could amp them on channel 1 and 2 and bridge 3 and 4 for a sub.
Old 11-11-2010, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eggyhustles View Post
No, dude. Ditch the rears completely.

If you went with raw drivers, you would need a 4 channel amp since each speaker needs to be amped on it's own channel. If you went with a component set that comes with a passive crossover, you could amp them on channel 1 and 2 and bridge 3 and 4 for a sub.
And going down to say just a component set in the front on an amp is going to sound better than all the factory speakers running properly? I'm not saying you're wrong, I just want to make the proper decision here.

I've read that additional modifications are needed when installing a component set? Is that correct or can they just use the same spots from OEM?
Old 11-11-2010, 06:56 AM
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Well, if price is an issue, forget about JL for the sub, there's cheaper options that sound just as good (better even).

It sounds like you're pretty much looking for an excuse to upgrade, so there's no reason to spend $60 on a PAC ROEM-NIS2 to bring the Bose system back up to full volume.

You'll have much broader amp options if you go with a monoblock and a 4-channel, and the wiring is only trivially more complicated.

So I'll throw option E:
10" Sundown SA-10
500w monoblock amp
400w 4 channel amp
Upgraded front components

Delay upgrading the rears until you've heard it with quality fronts installed. If you feel the need for something in the rear, power the rear bose speakers. If they detract from the quality, spend a few bucks on some coaxials in the rear.
Old 11-11-2010, 10:06 AM
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check out my thread for some cheap audio parts....

http://panoramic-3d.ru/forums/marketp...-acoustic.html
Old 11-11-2010, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOTimer View Post
That is AWESOME information...thank you! I had no idea that existed but they certainly didn't use something like that when they installed my deck. It's so quiet!

So like you said it would be the cheapest solution to fix my problem...are you running that setup with an aftermarket sub? Are you happy with it or do you also feel that the stock speakers are garbage? I don't even have a reference point since I've never actually gotten to hear them how they should sound!
My bose stereo died and I am in the process of replacing it, so I don't have any experience with the PAC ROEM-NIS2. To be honest I don't have much experience with complete aftermarket systems. I have replaced head units and the blown speakers in previous cars, but have not built a system with amps and subs. The bose sounds pretty good to me and it is loud enough for me to enjoy my music and the sub sounds pretty nice too. If you want a kick $$ system than you may want to take advice from others.
Old 11-11-2010, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrathernaut View Post
Well, if price is an issue, forget about JL for the sub, there's cheaper options that sound just as good (better even).

It sounds like you're pretty much looking for an excuse to upgrade, so there's no reason to spend $60 on a PAC ROEM-NIS2 to bring the Bose system back up to full volume.

You'll have much broader amp options if you go with a monoblock and a 4-channel, and the wiring is only trivially more complicated.

So I'll throw option E:
10" Sundown SA-10
500w monoblock amp
400w 4 channel amp
Upgraded front components

Delay upgrading the rears until you've heard it with quality fronts installed. If you feel the need for something in the rear, power the rear bose speakers. If they detract from the quality, spend a few bucks on some coaxials in the rear.
This is def a good option

I'd use one amp, though. Makes things more simple.

Something like the crescendo 1000c4 would be lovely

it'll do 125 x 2 for the front stage and a bridged 500 x 1 4 which is perfect for the sundown. Or 2 lower wattage 8's or 10's
Old 11-11-2010, 10:42 PM
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I am actually doing "option B" right now.

5 channel amp (HiFonics Zues i60.4 + 1k

Zeus Series 5-Channel Class A/B-D Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 60 watts x 4 chan. + 475 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 120 watts x 4 chan. + 750 watts x 1 chan.
1 ohm Mono: 1000 watts x 1 chan. (5th Channel Only)



This amp is 2006 compliant which means it has been certified it will make the power that is claimed.

Amp is on the way to my house as we speak, cant wait for it to arrive.

will be upgrading my fronts and rears and adding a 10" sub also at a later date.

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